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FAIR & FASCINATING FLORENCE
One thing that mesmerized me in Italy was the feat of engineering that is the autostrada (motorway) through the northern Apennines down to Liguria along the west coast of the country. Italy was the first country in the world to begin building motorways. The ones that we used to get from Milan to Genoa to Rapallo and the ones to Florence and Pisa have lovely names: The Motorway of the Flowers and the Blue Motorway.

To distract myself from the rather narrow lane widths and the high-speed (130km/h limit for cars) race-car driving style of our fellow motorists I concentrated on the intricacies of the roadway. The vast majority of the road is never on level land. The motorway literally goes from tunnel to bridge to tunnel to bridge for miles and miles of road. And each one, each tunnel and bridge, had a sign in front of it announcing its personal name. Every now and then I'd see a sign announcing "A fine tunnel" and think, "How nice that they point out when one of the tunnels is particularly pleasant!" only to discover later that it translates to "the end of the tunnel".

The views from the bridges between tunnels was spectacular, all cliffs and mountains and terraced farms and candy-colored towns nestled in the drapery of the rocks. On Tuesday it was raining, a thorough sort of soaking rain that looked as if it had settled in for the day, so we went to the Aquarium in Genoa, which had been recommended to Anders. I've been to a lot of aquariums in my life and I can pretty much take them or leave them at this point. Genoa's was big and comprehensive but it didn't really do anything special for me. I enjoyed the dolphins (2 of them) who had the run of several huge tanks that were open to the rain pelting down on the surface above them. At one point a small boy with a stuffed dolphin toy attracted their attention and the 2 dolphins spent quite some time investigating it: swimming up to and along the glass right in front of us, obviously curious and wondering what the heck that baby dolphin was doing on the wrong side of the glass!



After the Aquarium and trip to the Biosphere located right outside the building, we split up: Anders & Karin went to check out a playplace for kids and Martin & I set off into Genoa's labyrinthine old town and got completely lost. Luckily just as dusk began to fall and I started to panic because we were obviously going UPHILL again when we should have been going DOWN toward the harbor we ran into a couple of policemen who were able to point us in the right direction.

The next day started sunny so we decided to drive to Florence. By the time we were out of the mountains, however, the sky had clouded back up and it was raining. We passed Carrara on the way, where the pure white marble Michelangelo preferred is quarried. You could see the marble quarries covering the sides of the mountains from the road; it looked like snow. When my mom and I were in Italy on my choir tour during high school we also went to both Florence and Pisa and I had some struggles with my memory, wondering if we had stopped in Carrara then...turns out I was probably just having very vivid recollections of several rereadings of The Agony & The Ecstasy at an impressionable age. Heh!



We got to Florence around noon, without the help of the GPS on Anders' phone which, along with my iPhone, was totally dead, thanks to a non-functioning travel charger. We parked pretty far out from the center and walked in, stopping for a delicious lunch of pizza and lasagna on the way. As we approached the Ponte Vecchio the sky cleared up and the city and the Arno river sparkled at us. We walked over the bridge and (I) ogled the jewelry displays in the shops lining both sides of the street and ate the most expensive ice cream ON THE PLANET (How to Part a Tourist & Their Money, Part 1). Then we meandered up to the Mercato Nuovo (New Market) and rubbed Il Porcellino's nose. I did that when I was a teenager in Florence: it ensures your return to the city, so hopefully I'll get back there a third time someday, and maybe then I'll actually get my butt into one of the museums!



We walked a few blocks further and came out in the Piazza del Duomo directly in front of the Cathedral (Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore): staggering! It's truly magnificent. We went inside and walked around and then Anders and the kids decided to climb the bell tower (Giotto’s Campanile); since it was 414 steps I took a pass and went hunting for the traditional Florentine micro-mosaic jewelry I wanted. I have a couple of brooches but wanted a bracelet if I could find one. When I was in Florence 20 years ago, the stuff was everywhere. Now? Good luck! After several false starts, we finally found a store that had a dusty display of about 30 pieces. The proprietor, a half-English, half-Italian woman, told me it's really hard to find these days: old-fashioned and completely out of favor. I found the bracelet I was looking for and picked up a brooch with a beautiful sage green background, to boot.

We went back to the New Market and the kids each picked out a Venetian carnival mask and as the sun was setting, we walked back down the side of the Arno River, passed the Ponte Vecchio in the twilight and headed back to Rapallo, happy with our day.


I could stare at this building forever; so much detail and beauty!


View of Florence from Giotto's Campanile


The kids at the top of the Bell Tower, enjoying the view


The only thing sparklier than the jewelry shop window displays on the Ponte Vecchio in the daytime are the twinkling lights along its lengh at night.

(All photos copyright Anders Ek)

Buon compleanno auguri al mio amico Megsie bella!
 thoughtful
mood: thoughtful
music: Vertical Horizon—I Believe in You


Comments

lovely photos!

Most by Anders, but a few by Karin at some point :)

How did Anders or Karin get that dolphin foto without having a flash bounce off the glass? I can never figure that out. If I turn the flash off it's blurry and dark, if I leave it on, there is glare. They need to let me in on the secret! :P

He says it's a function of his camera (Nikon D90)...the camera adjusts time, aperture and ISO sensitivities. He didn't use a flash.

Thanks for posting all the pics! When Kevin and I eventually make it to Italy, I'll ask you for some travel tips and destinations. I was there by myself for a whirlwind medical trip two years ago and loved the country, what little I saw of it. Can't wait to go back.

Could you post a picture of the jewelry? Mosaic and Florentine sounds so pretty so I'm curious what it looks like!

There's a link in the post to a page that shows a lot of the jewelry. :)

Cool! very pretty stuff--thanks!

(Anonymous)
Joy here

I echo calif_fever's sentiments! Wonderful photographs. :))

Re: Joy here

Thanks! I didn't take any of these, they were all by my husband (and possibly Karin)

(Anonymous)

Lovely photos and you visited two of my "connections" with Italy. How cool is that! Genoa - that's where one of my best friends live with her Italian husband and two little boys, and Florence, that's where my grandfather's family lived for quite some time - his parents were artists - mother painter and father sculptor and painter. I actually have a painting at home by my grandfather's mother of their house in Florence.

I'm dreaming of visiting both of these places (so you bet I'm envious!) and I also dream of seeing that house in real life, if it still exists (not likely though...)

(My third connection with Italy is that my grandmother's father was Italian. :) Italy is also the common thing that brought my grandparents together, but that's a whole other story!)

What a lovely trip you seem to have had!

Mia

http://mias.blogg.se
http://www.meraord.se

You definitely have to go! Italy is wonderful: there's so much to see!

(Anonymous)

I've actually been to Italy twice. Once in 1990, a week in Terracina, with day outings to Capri and Pompeji. Stunning! And in 1991 on our Interrail trip, visiting the same friend who now is married in Genoa. She then worked as an au pair in Genoa, and met her husband on the beach in Camolgi... And now, almost 20 years later, married to that same guy, and mom of two boys. Like a romance novel formula 1A. LOL!

And I agree, there is so much to see. It's a dream to visit Florence (for family history reasons on top of it also being a very beautiful place!). And Venice. And Rome. And Milan.

Can't wait to see more photos and more stories from your trip!

Mia

http://mias.blogg.se
http://www.meraord.se

Thanks! I've got 2 more posts to go, I think :)

I love that one of the kids at Bell Tower, looking down on the city. More more more! ;)

2 more days of photos to come! :)

From Megsie

It sounds like such a fun time! I love your writing Liz: "The views from the bridges between tunnels was spectacular, all cliffs and mountains and terraced farms and candy-colored towns nestled in the drapery of the rocks." So vivid and beautiful. I can't wait to read more!

Re: From Megsie

It's such a good way to pin down memories!

Re: From Megsie

I forgot to thank you for those foreign birthday wishes! Thanks! And sending a big smooch to you!

(Anonymous)

We have a Porcellino reproduction in a shopping district in Kansas City. His nose is rubbed just as shiny as the one in Italy!

-Heather

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